The development of Native American silver turquoise jewelry begins in prehistoric times. Turquoise bead making has a long history in the US and beads of this lovely blue stone have been found in excavations in Arizona that date back to at least 200 B.C. In South America even beads have been found that date back to around 900 B.C. and in Central Mexico to around 700 B.C. Turquoise deposits are found in the southwestern parts of the US, in the western part of South America and there are small deposits in Mexico. In the US there is evidence that prehistoric Indians mined turquoise and made it into beads, hanging ornaments and possibly as a decoration on wooden ear decorations.

Prehistoric mining of turquoise occurred in Colorado, Arizona and New Mexico and turquoise beads found in southern Mexico and in eastern areas of the US show that trade between these areas was already established. It is quite possible that the Navajo, who later developed the silver turquoise jewelry we are so familiar with today were heavily influenced by the early Pueblo cultures in these regions as well as, later, by the Spanish. The Navajo are though to have migrated to the southwest regions some time between the 14th and early 16th centuries and not only further developed the use of turquoise in jewelry but spread the art to other Native American tribes.

The Navajo are essentially nomadic with a lifestyle which included raiding their enemies and taking and developing anything they came across in these raids. They were heavily influenced by the Spanish with whom they were in contact, not always peacefully, and from whom they probably developed their love of personal adornment. The development of turquoise beaded necklaces, which they used as signs of prestige, and other beaded decorations was also influenced by the Spanish styles. Many of the traditional Navajo designs are based on Spanish styles such as pomegranate flowers and the eastern crescent. During  the following centuries, when the Spanish dominated this region an uneasy peace between the two peoples existed. Trade resulted in the Navajo wearing ornaments made from a copper, nickel and zinc allow called German silver that was tough and shiny as well as from brass, copper and occasionally silver. At first they were probably suspended on simple rawhide thongs which later became more sophisticated with the use of silver and other metals.

Although it is not completely certain the first Navajo to make silver jewelry is usually accepted to be Atsidi Sani who was a blacksmith in the 1850’sand possibly began making silver jewelry around 1860. He is believed to be among the 8000 Navajo that were captured by the US cavalry in 1864 and sent to eastern New Mexico to be taught farming as a way of ending their warlike, nomadic lifestyle. In 1868, after admitting that it was not working out the Navajo were returned to their origin lands. Evidence that Atsidi Sani and possibly others were already making silver jewelry comes from a remark attributed to the commander of Fort Sumner, Major Wallen in 1864 who commented on their silversmithing abilities.

The first silver ornaments made by the Navaho were necklaces, bow guards, bracelets and belts from which other types of jewelry such as earrings and hair ornaments later evolved. It was around 1880 that turquoise was first used in silver jewelry which was often made from US or Mexican silver coins. They made jewelry for local Spanish ranchers or businessmen who may even have given them silver household items to use. Melting down US coins became so prevalent that a law was passed in 1890 to make it illegal although it continued for many years despite this. Silversmithing spread rapidly as Atsidi Sani taught the skill to his sons who then passed it on to others.

Conclusion

Turquoise has been used by indigenous people in Northern America, Southern America and Mexico for over 2000 years. It was originally used as beads and only in the last 200 years has the well known silver turquoise jewelry we associate with Native Americans developed.

Image by by Il Primo Uomo

Turquoise is the lovely gemstone used in our huge range of silver turquoise jewelry. Technically it is a combination of aluminum and phosphates with some traces of copper oxide, which gives it its blue color, and iron, calcium, zinc and manganese oxide. The green color of the gems comes from the aluminum or iron and yellow from zinc. Green is the most common color for turquoise gems, and in fact blue gems very often turn green when exposed to light for any length of time. Different combinations of these elements give turquoise its range of colors with the most highly prized being those with an intense blue color and yellow colored gems having the least value. High quality gems, Persian turquoise for instance, do not tend to fade and keep their lovely blue color indefinitely.

Some gemstones have a main color with a spider web matrix on the surface of the gem consisting of lines of a different color. This is caused by uneven distribution of the different elements that are present in the gem and the lines may be brown, yellow or black in many different patterns. Pure colored gems however are more highly prized than those with a spider web matrix although a turquoise gemstone of intense blue color, even with spider web matrix, is more highly prized than green or yellow pure colored gemstones. Natural gemstones of a pure color, that is without a spider web matrix, are rarer and are very highly prized.

Turquoise Treatments

Less than 10% of the turquoise used is the naturally occurring high quality gemstone that is suitable for use in jewelry. Over 80% is treated from rough, soft turquoise to make it hard enough to be used. The treatment also improves durability and the color of the gems. Turquoise from some countries, for example China, is always too soft and needs to be treated. Htowever after treatment produces attractive gems, although less highly prized than untreated gems, still make wonderful jewelry. Treatments enhance the color of the gemstones as well as making them harder so that they last for much longer. A color treatment method used is to inject an epoxy resin containing a dye into the gemstone. The color is more stable and will remain unchanged. Chinese turquoise is hardened by injecting liquid plastic into the stone. Another method is to inject epoxy resin alone to stabilize the stone without changing the color.

Artificial turquoise is also made from either plastic all from powdered turquoise that has been mixed with a plastic binder. This type of turquoise is of course very cheap. These imitations may be sold as natural turquoise and may be waxed or plastic coated.

Care of Turquoise Gemstones

Turquoise is both soft and porous so should be looked after carefully. It should never be worn when it can become scratched and should be protected from blows at all times. Now wear turquoise jewelry when you are gardening for washing up! Store it in its own softly lined box not with other gems which could scratch it. Turquoise gemstones can absorb liquids so keep it away from hot water, oils, chemicals and even perfumes and cosmetics as they can be absorbed by the stone which will become dull and may change color. you can clean turquoise using very mild soapy water and drying carefully with a soft cloth. Make sure it is completely dry before you store it away and never use ultrasonic jewelry cleaners as they can result in cracking of the stone.

Conclusion

Turquoise is a lovely, attractive gemstone which is highly prized. Although it does have some disadvantages in that it needs to be carefully looked after and some of the blue stones can turn green over time it makes wonderful silver turquoise jewelry as a lovely blue color perfectly complemented by the silver.

We love silver turquoise jewelry of all kinds including rings, necklaces, pendants and earrings. We hope you like the collection we’ve found for you. If you would like to get in touch with us please use the form below.