Native American Silver Turquoise Jewelry – It’s Origins and Development
The development of Native American silver turquoise jewelry begins in prehistoric times. Turquoise bead making has a long history in the US and beads of this lovely blue stone have been found in excavations in Arizona that date back to at least 200 B.C. In South America even beads have been found that date back to around 900 B.C. and in Central Mexico to around 700 B.C. Turquoise deposits are found in the southwestern parts of the US, in the western part of South America and there are small deposits in Mexico. In the US there is evidence that prehistoric Indians mined turquoise and made it into beads, hanging ornaments and possibly as a decoration on wooden ear decorations.
Prehistoric mining of turquoise occurred in Colorado, Arizona and New Mexico and turquoise beads found in southern Mexico and in eastern areas of the US show that trade between these areas was already established. It is quite possible that the Navajo, who later developed the silver turquoise jewelry we are so familiar with today were heavily influenced by the early Pueblo cultures in these regions as well as, later, by the Spanish. The Navajo are though to have migrated to the southwest regions some time between the 14th and early 16th centuries and not only further developed the use of turquoise in jewelry but spread the art to other Native American tribes.
The Navajo are essentially nomadic with a lifestyle which included raiding their enemies and taking and developing anything they came across in these raids. They were heavily influenced by the Spanish with whom they were in contact, not always peacefully, and from whom they probably developed their love of personal adornment. The development of turquoise beaded necklaces, which they used as signs of prestige, and other beaded decorations was also influenced by the Spanish styles. Many of the traditional Navajo designs are based on Spanish styles such as pomegranate flowers and the eastern crescent. DuringĀ the following centuries, when the Spanish dominated this region an uneasy peace between the two peoples existed. Trade resulted in the Navajo wearing ornaments made from a copper, nickel and zinc allow called German silver that was tough and shiny as well as from brass, copper and occasionally silver. At first they were probably suspended on simple rawhide thongs which later became more sophisticated with the use of silver and other metals.
Although it is not completely certain the first Navajo to make silver jewelry is usually accepted to be Atsidi Sani who was a blacksmith in the 1850’sand possibly began making silver jewelry around 1860. He is believed to be among the 8000 Navajo that were captured by the US cavalry in 1864 and sent to eastern New Mexico to be taught farming as a way of ending their warlike, nomadic lifestyle. In 1868, after admitting that it was not working out the Navajo were returned to their origin lands. Evidence that Atsidi Sani and possibly others were already making silver jewelry comes from a remark attributed to the commander of Fort Sumner, Major Wallen in 1864 who commented on their silversmithing abilities.
The first silver ornaments made by the Navaho were necklaces, bow guards, bracelets and belts from which other types of jewelry such as earrings and hair ornaments later evolved. It was around 1880 that turquoise was first used in silver jewelry which was often made from US or Mexican silver coins. They made jewelry for local Spanish ranchers or businessmen who may even have given them silver household items to use. Melting down US coins became so prevalent that a law was passed in 1890 to make it illegal although it continued for many years despite this. Silversmithing spread rapidly as Atsidi Sani taught the skill to his sons who then passed it on to others.
Conclusion
Turquoise has been used by indigenous people in Northern America, Southern America and Mexico for over 2000 years. It was originally used as beads and only in the last 200 years has the well known silver turquoise jewelry we associate with Native Americans developed.
Image by by Il Primo Uomo
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